Influência de óleos vegetais brasileiros na resistência mecânica da fibra capilar
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2015
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Edições Universitárias Lusófonas
Resumo
Associando a tendência global de incorporar ingredientes ativos derivados de plantas em formulações cosméticas
e da enorme biodiversidade brasileira, o presente trabalho teve como objetivo estudar a incorporação de óleos
vegetais brasileiros em condicionadores capilares, avaliando-se seu efeito na resistência mecânica da fibra do
cabelo. Os seguintes óleos foram incorporados a uma formulação base a 5,0 % (p/p): babaçu, buriti, andiroba e
pequi. As formulações foram aplicadas a mechas de cabelo Caucasiano, seguido de um procedimento de lavagem,
sendo resistência mecânica posteriormente avaliada. Verificou-se que não havia nenhuma diferença estatisticamente
significativa na resistência mecânica entre as mechas tratadas com os diferentes óleos e o controle entre o primeiro
e o sétimo ciclos de lavagem. Este fato pode ser explicado pela baixa penetração dos óleos no córtex, uma região
responsável pelas propriedades mecânicas da fibra capilar, uma vez que sua composição desfavorece a difusão.
Os efeitos comuns de óleos vegetais na cutícula, como preencher fendas ou cavidades, lubrificação e aumentar a
hidrofobicidade não pode ser excluída. Portanto, os óleos testados neste trabalho não foram capazes de aumentar
ou proteger as mechas de cabelo nas condições experimentais utilizadas. No entanto, mais estudos são necessários
para determinar seus efeitos, principalmente em cabelos danificados.
Associating the global trend of incorporating active compounds and plants in cosmetic formulations and the vast Brazilian biodiversity, the present work aimed to study the incorporation of Brazilian vegetable oils in hair conditioner formulations, evaluating the mechanical resistance of hair fibers. The following oils were incorporated into base formulations at 5.0 % (w/w): babassu, buriti, andiroba and pequi. The formulations were applied to samples of Caucasian hair, followed by several washing steps, then the evaluation of mechanical strength. It was found that there was no statistically significant difference in mechanical resistance between samples treated with oils and the control between the first and seventh wash cycles. This fact can be explained by the possible low penetration of oils into the cortex, a region responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, since the grease composition disfavors its diffusion. The common effects of vegetable oils on the cuticle, such as filling in cracks or cavities, lubrication, and increased protein hydrophobicity cannot be excluded. The oils tested in this work were not able to raise or protect hair tresses. However, additional studies are required in order to establish the effects of oil treatments, particularly in damaged hair.
Associating the global trend of incorporating active compounds and plants in cosmetic formulations and the vast Brazilian biodiversity, the present work aimed to study the incorporation of Brazilian vegetable oils in hair conditioner formulations, evaluating the mechanical resistance of hair fibers. The following oils were incorporated into base formulations at 5.0 % (w/w): babassu, buriti, andiroba and pequi. The formulations were applied to samples of Caucasian hair, followed by several washing steps, then the evaluation of mechanical strength. It was found that there was no statistically significant difference in mechanical resistance between samples treated with oils and the control between the first and seventh wash cycles. This fact can be explained by the possible low penetration of oils into the cortex, a region responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, since the grease composition disfavors its diffusion. The common effects of vegetable oils on the cuticle, such as filling in cracks or cavities, lubrication, and increased protein hydrophobicity cannot be excluded. The oils tested in this work were not able to raise or protect hair tresses. However, additional studies are required in order to establish the effects of oil treatments, particularly in damaged hair.
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CABELO, HAIR, PRODUTOS COSMÉTICOS, COSMETICS, ÓLEOS VEGETAIS, VEGETABLE OILS, CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES, ESTUDOS DE CASO, CASE STUDIES, EMULSÕES, EMULSIONS