Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas contendo o polímero glucan de Mandioca (Manihot esculenta): Estabilidade e análise sensorial
Miniatura indisponível
Ficheiros
Data
2015
Título da revista
ISSN da revista
Título do Volume
Editora
Edições Universitárias Lusófonas
Resumo
O objetivo desse trabalho é o desenvolvimento, avaliação do comportamento reológico e análise sensorial de
formulações contendo o biopolímero glucan (Manihot esculenta). Para tal, foram desenvolvidas formulações que
foram adicionadas, ou não, de 4 % do extrato hidrolisado da raíz de Manihot esculenta e submetidas a testes
preliminares de estabilidade. Essas formulações foram submetidas a análises de comportamento reológico durante
90 dias. A análise sensorial foi realizada em um grupo de 20 consumidoras de cosméticos. As formulações foram
aplicadas na região do antebraço das voluntárias e foi aplicado um questionário sobre as percepções das qualidades
cosméticas. As formulações apresentaram comportamento pseudoplástico e foram consideradas estáveis nos testes
de estabilidade física, exceto a formulação em gel a base de Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer.
As formulações foram bem avaliadas em seus parâmetros sensoriais. As formulações em gel baseadas em
Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 foram estáveis e apresentaram o perfil sensorial mais
agradável e, considerando os testes de estabilidade física realizados, pode-se concluir que é um veículo apropriado
para formulações contendo o extrato hidrolisado da raíz de Manihot esculenta.
The aim of this study was the development, rheological behaviour determination, and sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations containing glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta), a tensor agent that was proposed to produce an immediate lifting and smoothing effect. For this purpose, formulations were developed and supplemented or not with 4 % of hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract and submitted to preliminary stability tests. These formulations were evaluated in terms of rheological behaviour over 90 days. Sensory analysis was carried out through a research with 20 cosmetic consumers who answered a questionnaire regarding their perception to the cosmetic qualities. The formulations presented pseudoplastic behavior and were considered stable in the physical stability studies, with the exception of the gel formulation based on Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. The formulations were well evaluated in the sensory parameters. The gel formulations based on Polyacrylamide, C13- 14 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 were stable and presented the best sensory profile in some evaluated parameters, such as spreadability, smoothness and skin moisturizing, and can be considered an appropriate vehicle for formulations containing hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract.
The aim of this study was the development, rheological behaviour determination, and sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations containing glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta), a tensor agent that was proposed to produce an immediate lifting and smoothing effect. For this purpose, formulations were developed and supplemented or not with 4 % of hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract and submitted to preliminary stability tests. These formulations were evaluated in terms of rheological behaviour over 90 days. Sensory analysis was carried out through a research with 20 cosmetic consumers who answered a questionnaire regarding their perception to the cosmetic qualities. The formulations presented pseudoplastic behavior and were considered stable in the physical stability studies, with the exception of the gel formulation based on Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. The formulations were well evaluated in the sensory parameters. The gel formulations based on Polyacrylamide, C13- 14 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 were stable and presented the best sensory profile in some evaluated parameters, such as spreadability, smoothness and skin moisturizing, and can be considered an appropriate vehicle for formulations containing hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
PELE, SKIN, PRODUTOS COSMÉTICOS, COSMETICS, CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES, POLÍMEROS, POLYMERS, ESTUDOS DE CASO, CASE STUDIES