Development of cosmetic formulations containing glucan polymer of Cassava (Manihot esculenta): stability and sensory analysis
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2015
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Edições Universitárias Lusófonas
Resumo
O objetivo desse trabalho é o desenvolvimento, avaliação do comportamento reológico e análise sensorial de formulações contendo o biopolímero glucan (Manihot esculenta). Para tal, foram desenvolvidas formulações que foram adicionadas, ou não, de 4 % do extrato hidrolisado da raíz de Manihot esculenta e submetidas a testes preliminares de estabilidade. Essas formulações foram submetidas a análises de comportamento reológico durante 90 dias. A análise sensorial foi realizada em um grupo de 20 consumidoras de cosméticos. As formulações foram aplicadas na região do antebraço das voluntárias e foi aplicado um questionário sobre as percepções das qualidades cosméticas. As formulações apresentaram comportamento pseudoplástico e foram consideradas estáveis nos testes de estabilidade física, exceto a formulação em gel a base de Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. As formulações foram bem avaliadas em seus parâmetros sensoriais. As formulações em gel baseadas em Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 foram estáveis e apresentaram o perfil sensorial mais agradável e, considerando os testes de estabilidade física realizados, pode-se concluir que é um veículo apropriado para formulações contendo o extrato hidrolisado da raíz de Manihot esculenta.
The aim of this study was the development, rheological behaviour determination, and sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations containing glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta), a tensor agent that was proposed to produce an immediate lifting and smoothing effect. For this purpose, formulations were developed and supplemented or not with 4 % of hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract and submitted to preliminary stability tests. These formulations were evaluated in terms of rheological behaviour over 90 days. Sensory analysis was carried out through a research with 20 cosmetic consumers who answered a questionnaire regarding their perception to the cosmetic qualities. The formulations presented pseudoplastic behavior and were considered stable in the physical stability studies, with the exception of the gel formulation based on Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. The formulations were well evaluated in the sensory parameters. The gel formulations based on Polyacrylamide, C13- 14 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 were stable and presented the best sensory profile in some evaluated parameters, such as spreadability, smoothness and skin moisturizing, and can be considered an appropriate vehicle for formulations containing hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract.
The aim of this study was the development, rheological behaviour determination, and sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations containing glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta), a tensor agent that was proposed to produce an immediate lifting and smoothing effect. For this purpose, formulations were developed and supplemented or not with 4 % of hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract and submitted to preliminary stability tests. These formulations were evaluated in terms of rheological behaviour over 90 days. Sensory analysis was carried out through a research with 20 cosmetic consumers who answered a questionnaire regarding their perception to the cosmetic qualities. The formulations presented pseudoplastic behavior and were considered stable in the physical stability studies, with the exception of the gel formulation based on Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. The formulations were well evaluated in the sensory parameters. The gel formulations based on Polyacrylamide, C13- 14 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 were stable and presented the best sensory profile in some evaluated parameters, such as spreadability, smoothness and skin moisturizing, and can be considered an appropriate vehicle for formulations containing hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract.
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POLÍMEROS, ESTUDOS DE CASO, PELE, PRODUTOS COSMÉTICOS, CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, POLYMERS, CASE STUDIES, SKIN, COSMETICS, PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES
Citação
Manço , L M , Mercúrio , D G , Melo , M O & Campos , P M B G M 2015 , ' Development of cosmetic formulations containing glucan polymer of Cassava (Manihot esculenta): stability and sensory analysis ' , Default journal .