Estabilidade e eficácia clínica de formulações cosméticas hidratantes contendo Vitaminas C e E
Miniatura indisponível
Ficheiros
Data
2013
Título da revista
ISSN da revista
Título do Volume
Editora
Resumo
A adição de diferentes substâncias activas em produtos cosméticos, por exemplo, vitaminas e seus derivados, tem sido bastante frequente. Desta forma, é fundamental avaliar a estabilidade e eficácia de formulações cosméticas que contêm estes ingredientes. O objectivo deste trabalho foi o de avaliar a estabilidade física e a eficácia clínica da hidratação formulações cosméticas com base em pantenol, e contendo tetraisopalmitato de ascorbilo e a-tocoferol. Por isso, as formulações foram desenvolvidas com pantenol (FA), pantenol e tetraisopalmitato de ascorbilo e a-tocoferol (FBC), que foi submetido à análise do comportamento reológico, caracterizando-as como estável. Em seguida, foram subjectivamente e objectivamente analisados quanto à eficácia clínica em 25 voluntários por avaliação sensorial e técnicas de bioengenharia cutânea, em termos de teor de água do estrato córneo, a perda de água transepidérmica (TEWL) e microrrelevo da pele, antes e depois de 3 horas de aplicação . As formulações estudadas apresentaram estabilidade aceitável de acordo com os aspectos físicos considerados. Nos estudos de eficácia clínica, ambas as formulações melhoraram significativamente a hidratação da pele e reduziram a TEWL, e também demonstraram uma melhoria no microrrelevo da pele, mas estes resultados não foram estatisticamente significativos. FBC recebeu notas superiores FA por análise sensorial, com melhoria significativa da suavidade da pele, além de ser preferido em intenção de compra.
The addition of different active substances in cosmetics, e.g. vitamins and their derivatives, has been quite frequent. In this way, it is fundamental to evaluate the stability and efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing these ingredients. The objective of this work was to evaluate the physical stability and the clinical efficacy of moisturizing cosmetic formulations based on panthenol, and containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and a-tocopherol acetate. Formulations were developed with panthenol (FA), panthenol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and a-tocopherol acetate (FBC). The latter was submitted to rheological behavior analysis and all were characterized as stable. Next, they were subjectively and objectively analyzed for clinical efficacy in 25 volunteers. Sensory evaluation and biophysical and skin imaging techniques were used to measure stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin microrelief. These were carried out before application of the formulations and then after 3 hours. The formulations studied showed acceptable stability according to the physical aspects under consideration. In the clinical efficacy studies, both formulations significantly improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL. There was also improvement in skin microrelief but these results were not statistically significant. FBC received higher scores than FAin the sensory analysis as there was a significant improvement in the skin's smoothness, besides being preferred in purchase intent.
The addition of different active substances in cosmetics, e.g. vitamins and their derivatives, has been quite frequent. In this way, it is fundamental to evaluate the stability and efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing these ingredients. The objective of this work was to evaluate the physical stability and the clinical efficacy of moisturizing cosmetic formulations based on panthenol, and containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and a-tocopherol acetate. Formulations were developed with panthenol (FA), panthenol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and a-tocopherol acetate (FBC). The latter was submitted to rheological behavior analysis and all were characterized as stable. Next, they were subjectively and objectively analyzed for clinical efficacy in 25 volunteers. Sensory evaluation and biophysical and skin imaging techniques were used to measure stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin microrelief. These were carried out before application of the formulations and then after 3 hours. The formulations studied showed acceptable stability according to the physical aspects under consideration. In the clinical efficacy studies, both formulations significantly improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL. There was also improvement in skin microrelief but these results were not statistically significant. FBC received higher scores than FAin the sensory analysis as there was a significant improvement in the skin's smoothness, besides being preferred in purchase intent.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, PRODUTOS COSMÉTICOS, PELE, VITAMINAS, PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES, COSMETICS, SKIN, VITAMINS, HIDRATAÇÃO, HYDRATION