Efeitos imediatos e em longo prazo de uma formulação cosmética contendo extrato da raiz de Cichorium intybus
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Data
2017
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Editora
Edições Universitárias Lusófonas
Resumo
A pele seca é caracterizada como uma superfície áspera, com menor teor de água do que a pele normal. A Vitamina
D ajuda a regular a proliferação e diferenciação celular e pode ajudar a proteger a pele contra fatores ambientais.
No entanto, a Vitamina D é instável em formulações cosméticas. Assim, o objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar o
sensorial e os efeitos protetores na hidratação da pele de uma formulação cosmética contendo extracto de raiz
Cichorium intybus - "Vitamina D like" (VD). A formulação, adicionada ou não (veículo) de VD, foi aplicada no
braço, antebraço e na face de quinze participantes. Antes (basal) e após 2 horas, 45 e 90 dias de aplicação diária
das formulações foram realizadas medidas do conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo, perda de água transepidémica e
parâmetros do microrrelevo da pele por técnicas biofísicas e análise de imagem. Apenas a formulação com VD foi
efetiva na manutenção da função barreira e hidratação da pele em condições de baixa umidade. Assim, oextracto de
raíz de Cichorium intybus é um ingrediente ativo eficaz para aplicação em cosméticos para evitar o ressecamento
da pele. Além disso, a “Vitamina D like” melhorou o sensorial da formulação cosmética estudada.
Dry skin is characterized as a rough and scaling skin surface. It usually has lower water content than normal skin. Vitamin D helps to regulate cellular proliferation and differentiation andcan help to protect skin from environmental factors. However, the stability vitamin D in cosmetic formulations is low. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the sensory properties and protective effects on skin hydration of a cosmetic formulation containing Cichorium intybus root extract, previously shown to be “vitamin D like” (VD). A formulation containing VD or not (vehicle) was applied on the arm, forearm and face of fifteen subjects. Measurements of stratum corneum water content, Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and skin microrelief parameters were performed using biophysical and skin image techniques before (baseline), after 2 hours, and after 45 and 90 days of daily application of the formulations. Only the formulation with VD was effective in maintaining skin barrier function and skin hydration under low humidity conditions. Cichorium intybus root extract is shown to be an effective “vitamin D like” active ingredient to use in cosmetic formulations to avoid skin dryness. In addition, the extract maintained the sensory properties of the studied cosmetic formulation.
Dry skin is characterized as a rough and scaling skin surface. It usually has lower water content than normal skin. Vitamin D helps to regulate cellular proliferation and differentiation andcan help to protect skin from environmental factors. However, the stability vitamin D in cosmetic formulations is low. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the sensory properties and protective effects on skin hydration of a cosmetic formulation containing Cichorium intybus root extract, previously shown to be “vitamin D like” (VD). A formulation containing VD or not (vehicle) was applied on the arm, forearm and face of fifteen subjects. Measurements of stratum corneum water content, Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and skin microrelief parameters were performed using biophysical and skin image techniques before (baseline), after 2 hours, and after 45 and 90 days of daily application of the formulations. Only the formulation with VD was effective in maintaining skin barrier function and skin hydration under low humidity conditions. Cichorium intybus root extract is shown to be an effective “vitamin D like” active ingredient to use in cosmetic formulations to avoid skin dryness. In addition, the extract maintained the sensory properties of the studied cosmetic formulation.
Descrição
Biomedical and biopharmaceutical research : jornal de investigação biomédica e biofarmacêutica
Palavras-chave
MEDICINA, CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, PLANTAS, PRODUTOS COSMÉTICOS, HIDRATAÇÃO, PELE, MEDICINE, PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES, PLANTS, COSMETICS, HYDRATION, SKIN, ANÁLISE SENSORIAL, SENSORIAL ANALYSIS