Análises reológica, de textura, e sensorial e eficácia clinica in vivo de formulações cosméticas contendo tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila
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Data
2020
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Edições Universitárias Lusófonas
Resumo
Cosméticos antiaging com ingredientes naturais de origem sustentável são crescentes no mercado cosmético. Esse trabalho teve por objetivo avaliar as propriedades fisico-mecânicas e ensoriais e a eficácia clínica imediata de formulações cosméticas à base de ingredientes de origem natural, nas formas de serum e de gel creme, acrescidas ou não (veículo) de ácido ascórbico (AAS) ou tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila (TIPA) Foram avaliadas estabilidade preliminar, propriedades físico-mecânicas através de perfis de textura e reologia, análise sensorial e eficácia imediata nos antebraços e face de dezenove participantes, analisando hidratação, perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL) e microrrelevo cutâneo, por técnicas não invasivas Incluindo a imagem da pele. Houve leves alterações nas formulações com AAS submetidas ao estresse térmico, sendo estáveis sob temperatura ambiente. As formulações foram eficazes na hidratação da pele e os séruns e gel creme que continham TIPA diminuíram a TEWL, mas não alteraram significativamente os parâmetros do microrrelevo. O serum obteve boa aceitação sensorial, com parâmetros correlacionados aos obtidos pelo texturômetro, sendo o sérum com TIPA melhor avaliado, enquanto que o gel creme não foi bem aceito. Portanto, os resultados obtidos mostraram relação entre características fisico-mecânicas e sensoriais, além da melhor estabilidade e aceitação da forma lipossolúvel da vitamina C.
Cosmetics with anti-aging effects using ingredients of sustainable origin are increasing in the cosmetic market. This study aimed to evaluate the physical-mechanical and sensory properties and immediate clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations with ingredients from natural sources to which were added or not (vehicle only) ascorbic acid (AAS) or ascorbyl tetrasopalmitate (ATIP). The preliminary stability, physical-mechanical properties, rheology texture profile, and sensory analysis were performed. In addition, immediate clinical effects mm terms of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin microrelief were investigated on the forearms and in the faces of nineteen subjects by non- invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. There were slight changes 1n the formulations with AAS submitted to thermal stress, but they were stable under ambient temperature. All formulations were effective m skin hydration. Serums and gel cream with ATIP decreased TEWL but did not significantly change the microrelief parameters. The serum achieved good sensory acceptance and parameters were correlated to those obtained by the texturometer. The best performance was from serum with ATIP, whereas gel cream was not well accepted. Therefore, results showed a correlation between physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, in addition to better stability and acceptance of the fat-soluble form of vitamin C.
Cosmetics with anti-aging effects using ingredients of sustainable origin are increasing in the cosmetic market. This study aimed to evaluate the physical-mechanical and sensory properties and immediate clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations with ingredients from natural sources to which were added or not (vehicle only) ascorbic acid (AAS) or ascorbyl tetrasopalmitate (ATIP). The preliminary stability, physical-mechanical properties, rheology texture profile, and sensory analysis were performed. In addition, immediate clinical effects mm terms of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin microrelief were investigated on the forearms and in the faces of nineteen subjects by non- invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. There were slight changes 1n the formulations with AAS submitted to thermal stress, but they were stable under ambient temperature. All formulations were effective m skin hydration. Serums and gel cream with ATIP decreased TEWL but did not significantly change the microrelief parameters. The serum achieved good sensory acceptance and parameters were correlated to those obtained by the texturometer. The best performance was from serum with ATIP, whereas gel cream was not well accepted. Therefore, results showed a correlation between physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, in addition to better stability and acceptance of the fat-soluble form of vitamin C.
Descrição
Biomedical and biopharmaceutical research : jornal de investigação biomédica e biofarmacêutica
Palavras-chave
MEDICINA, PRODUTOS COSMÉTICOS, ANÁLISE SENSORIAL, REOLOGIA, MEDICINE, SENSORIAL ANALYSIS, COSMETICS, RHEOLOGY, PRODUTOS DE ORIGEM NATURAL, NATURAL PRODUCTS