Nanocarriers for skin delivery of cosmetic antioxidants
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Data
2018
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Os etossomas são compostos por fosfolípidos, etanol e água. O etanol e um
eficiente potenciador da permeação, perturbação da bicamada lipídica da pele, que afeta a região intercelular do estrato córneo.
A sua aplicação em produtos cosméticos tem em vista aumentar a estabilidade dos produtos químicos cosmeticos, diminuir a irritação da pele de outros compostos cosméticos e melhorar a permeação da pele.
Neste estudo, comparamos diferentes antioxidantes bem conhecidos na indústria de cosméticos, como o Ácido Ferúlico e a Rutina. As concentrações estudadas foram 0,03%, 0,05%, 0,075% e 0,1% para Rutina e 0,03%, 0,05% e 0,075% (p / v) para ácido ferúlico.
As dispersões coloidais foram analisadas quanto ao tamanho, potencial zeta, PDI,pH e atividade antioxidante. As emulsões com etossomas e com soluções metanólicas e aquosas também foram analisadas quanto as propriedades organolépticas, pH e atividade antioxidante.
Os resultados mostraram que a atividade antioxidante da Rutina e do ácido ferúlico foi maior quando encapsulada em etossomas. Alem disso, a associação de líquidos iónicos a esses sistemas vesiculares aumenta a solubilidade das substâncias ativas, aumentando a sua atividade antioxidante. Ainda é possível concluir que o tamanho dos etossomas encapsulados com Rutina e líquido iónico diminui drasticamente em relação aos etossomas com Ácido Ferúlico. O potencial zeta e o índice de polidispersidade mostraram que a estabilidade e homogeneidade dos etossomas deve ser avaliada continuamente.
Ethosomes are composed by phospholipids, ethanol and water. Ethanol is an efficient permeation enhancer that affects the interceIIuIar region of the stratum corneum. Their application on cosmetic products aims to increase the stability of the cosmetic chemicals, to decrease skin irritation from other cosmetic compounds and improve skin permeation. In this study, we compared different well known antioxidants in the cosmetic industry, such as ferulic acid and Rutin. The concentrations studied were 0.03%, 0.05%, 0.075% and 0.1 % (w / v) for Rutin and 0.03%, 0.05% and 0.075% (w / v) for ferulic acid. The colloidal dispersions were analyzed for size, zeta potential, PDI, pH and antioxidant activity. Emulsions with ethosomes and with methanolic and aqueous solutions were also analyzed for their organoleptic properties, pH and antioxidant activity. Results showed that the antioxidant activity of Rutin and ferulic acid was higher when encapsulated in ethosomes. In addition, the association of ionic liquids to these vesicular systems increases the solubility of the active substances, increasing their antioxidant activity. It is still possible to conclude that the size of ethosomes encapsulated with Rutin and ionic liquid decreases dramatically for the ethosomes with ferulic acid. The zeta potential and the polydispersity index showed that the stability and homogeneity of the ethosomes have to be continuously evaluated.
Ethosomes are composed by phospholipids, ethanol and water. Ethanol is an efficient permeation enhancer that affects the interceIIuIar region of the stratum corneum. Their application on cosmetic products aims to increase the stability of the cosmetic chemicals, to decrease skin irritation from other cosmetic compounds and improve skin permeation. In this study, we compared different well known antioxidants in the cosmetic industry, such as ferulic acid and Rutin. The concentrations studied were 0.03%, 0.05%, 0.075% and 0.1 % (w / v) for Rutin and 0.03%, 0.05% and 0.075% (w / v) for ferulic acid. The colloidal dispersions were analyzed for size, zeta potential, PDI, pH and antioxidant activity. Emulsions with ethosomes and with methanolic and aqueous solutions were also analyzed for their organoleptic properties, pH and antioxidant activity. Results showed that the antioxidant activity of Rutin and ferulic acid was higher when encapsulated in ethosomes. In addition, the association of ionic liquids to these vesicular systems increases the solubility of the active substances, increasing their antioxidant activity. It is still possible to conclude that the size of ethosomes encapsulated with Rutin and ionic liquid decreases dramatically for the ethosomes with ferulic acid. The zeta potential and the polydispersity index showed that the stability and homogeneity of the ethosomes have to be continuously evaluated.
Descrição
Orientação: Joana Portugal Mota
Palavras-chave
MESTRADO INTEGRADO EM CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, SISTEMAS DE LIBERTAÇÃO DE MEDICAMENTOS, ANTIOXIDANTES, PRODUTOS COSMÉTICOS, NANOTECNOLOGIA, PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES, DRUG DELIVERY SYSTEMS, ANTIOXIDANTS, NANOTECHNOLOGY, COSMETICS, CENTROS DE CONTROLO E PREVENÇÃO DE DOENÇAS, CENTERS FOR DISEASE CONTROL AND PREVENTION, CDC