Design Knock-Off e o fast fashion : um paradigma legalizado?
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Data
2017
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Resumo
Com a presente dissertação pretendeu-se indagar quais são os agentes
mais lesados com as práticas de ‘knock-off’ na indústria de moda, a que
marcas de moda estas práticas são mais associadas, se serão elas que orientam,
ou pelo contrário, subvertem a inovação e, por fim, se os direitos de
Propriedade Intelectual mostram-se suficientes para conferir uma proteção
holística e internacional ao design de moda. Optou-se por um método de
investigação qualitativo, nomeadamente uma entrevista submetida a três indivíduos
com uma relação direta com a área de interesse, onde se procurou
aprofundar o fenómeno estudado ao aliar a experiência e o conhecimento
dos entrevistados com o referencial teórico analisado. Os resultados demonstram
que são os novos designers o mais prejudicados com as práticas
de ‘knock-off’ e que estas surgem, regularmente, associadas às marcas de
fast fashion. A salvaguarda do design de moda mostra-se difícil, desde logo
pela falta de previsão específica no ordenamento jurídico português e pela
incongruência nos diversos sistemas e ordenamentos jurídicos. Esta dificuldade
assume uma maior particularidade relativamente ao fenómeno dos
‘knock-offs’, cada vez mais frequentes. Os efeitos destas práticas na inovação
não são consensuais, embora se possa crer que afetem o ciclo natural da indústria de moda.
The aim of this dissertation is to inquire which agents are most harmed by the knock-offs in the fashion industry, what fashion brands are most associated with these practices, if they are the responsible ones for guiding the innovation, and if Intellectual Property rights are adequate to protect fashion design in a holistically and internacionally manner. It has been chosen a qualitative research method, namely an interview submitted to three individuals with a direct relation to the area of interest. The objetive was to deepen the studied phenomenon by combining the experience and knowledge of the interviewees with the theoretical framework analyzed. The findings demonstrate that new designers are the most affected by knock-off practices which are in turn regularly associated with fast fashion brands. The legal protection of fashion design has proven to be difficult due the lack of a specific previson in the Portuguese legal system and the incongruity in the different legal systems. This lack of legal protection shows to be more particular in the case of knock-offs which are increasingly frequent. The effects of these practices on innovation are not consensual although they may be thought to affect the natural cycle of the fashion industry.
The aim of this dissertation is to inquire which agents are most harmed by the knock-offs in the fashion industry, what fashion brands are most associated with these practices, if they are the responsible ones for guiding the innovation, and if Intellectual Property rights are adequate to protect fashion design in a holistically and internacionally manner. It has been chosen a qualitative research method, namely an interview submitted to three individuals with a direct relation to the area of interest. The objetive was to deepen the studied phenomenon by combining the experience and knowledge of the interviewees with the theoretical framework analyzed. The findings demonstrate that new designers are the most affected by knock-off practices which are in turn regularly associated with fast fashion brands. The legal protection of fashion design has proven to be difficult due the lack of a specific previson in the Portuguese legal system and the incongruity in the different legal systems. This lack of legal protection shows to be more particular in the case of knock-offs which are increasingly frequent. The effects of these practices on innovation are not consensual although they may be thought to affect the natural cycle of the fashion industry.
Descrição
Orientação: Miguel Nuno Vieira de Carvalho d’Abreu Varela
Palavras-chave
MESTRADO EM CIÊNCIAS DA COMUNICAÇÃO, MARKETING E PUBLICIDADE, COMUNICAÇÃO, MODA, INDÚSTRIA DA MODA, DESIGN INDUSTRIAL, GESTÃO DE MARCAS, PROPRIEDADE INTELECTUAL, INOVAÇÃO, COMMUNICATION, FASHION, FASHION INDUSTRY, INDUSTRIAL DESIGN, BRAND MANAGEMENT, INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY, INNOVATION