Abordagem dos efeitos do óleo essencial de erva-príncipe (Cymbopogon citratus) sobre a pele humana
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2022
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Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf, popularmente conhecida como capim-limão, é uma planta aromática. O seu óleo essencial é usado na medicina tradicional em vários continentes para o tratamento sintomático de várias doenças, incluindo inflamações e alergias, embora esse uso não tenha ainda sido objeto de reconhecimento com monografia europeia. Diversos óleos essenciais são utilizados em formulações cosméticas e dermatológicas, e, no entanto, não há informações sobre os efeitos de formulações contendo óleo essencial de C. citratus (EOCC) na pele humana. Assim, o objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar os efeitos da formulação contendo EOCC na fisiologia da pele em voluntários saudáveis. Foi preparado um gel à base de Carboximetilcelulose (CMC) contendo 5% de EOCC. Foram selecionados 12 voluntários saudáveis (4 homens e 8 mulheres) com idade média de 36,2 ± 16,3 anos. Todos os procedimentos foram conduzidos de acordo com os princípios éticos e aprovados pela Comissão de Ética da Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologias da Saúde da Universidade Lusófona (aprovação n.º 04/13). Duas áreas (3cmx3cm) foram desenhadas no antebraço para testar a formulação. Numa área foi aplicada formulação contendo EOCC enquanto em outra foi aplicado apenas gel (controlo) durante 14 dias, 2 vezes ao dia (manhã e noite). Antes e no final da experiência, a função de barreira epidérmica foi avaliada através de um evaporímetro (Tewameter TM300 CK electronics). A hidratação epidérmica foi medida usando Moisture Meters (Delphin Technologies). Os parâmetros biomecânicos da pele foram avaliados pelo Cutiscan CS100 (CK electronics). Na área tratada com formulação contendo EOCC, observou-se uma diminuição significativa da Perda de Água Transepidérmica (PTEA), bem como um aumento significativo da hidratação epidérmica. Em relação aos parâmetros biomecânicos da pele foi detetado um aumento na firmeza e elasticidade. Os resultados evidenciaram que as formulações contendo EOCC são seguras para aplicação tópica e podem melhorar e proteger a pele sugerindo uma utilização promissora em produtos cosméticos.
Palavra-chave: Cymbopogon citratus, óleo essencial, Erva-Príncipe, Capim Limão, Pele, Barreira Cutânea
Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf, popularly known as lemongrass, is an aromatic plant. Its essential oil is used in traditional medicine as remedies for the treatment of various diseases, including inflammation and allergy, although this use has not yet been recognized with a European monograph. Several essential oils are used in in cosmetic and dermatological formulations, however, there is not information about effects of formulations containing essential oil of C. citratus (EOCC) on human skin. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of formulation containing EOCC on skin’s physiology in healthy volunteers. Gel based on Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) containing 5% EOCC was prepared. Twelve healthy volunteers (4 men and 8 women) mean age 36.2 ± 16.3 years old were selected. All procedures were conducted according to the ethical principles and approved by the Ethics Committee from the School of Sciences and Health Technologies, Universidade Lusofona (approval number 04/13). Two areas (3cmx3cm) were drawn in forearm to test formulation. In one area was apllied formulation containing EOCC while in other was applied only gel (control) for 14 days, 2 times per day (morning and night). Before and in end of experiment, the epidermal barrier function was assessed through an evaporimeter (Tewameter TM300 CK electronics). Epidermal hydration was measured using MoistureMeters (Delphin Technologies). Biomechanical skin parameters were evaluated by Cutiscan CS100 (CK electronics). A significant decrease of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), as well as a significant increase of epidermal hydration, were observed in area treated with formulation containing EOCC. Regarding skin biomechanical parameters was detected an increase in firmness and elasticity. The results provide evidence that formulations containing EOCC are safe for topic application and could improve and protect skin suggesting promising utilization in cosmetic products. Keywords: Cymbopogon citratus, essential oil, Lemongrass, Skin, Skin Barrier
Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf, popularly known as lemongrass, is an aromatic plant. Its essential oil is used in traditional medicine as remedies for the treatment of various diseases, including inflammation and allergy, although this use has not yet been recognized with a European monograph. Several essential oils are used in in cosmetic and dermatological formulations, however, there is not information about effects of formulations containing essential oil of C. citratus (EOCC) on human skin. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of formulation containing EOCC on skin’s physiology in healthy volunteers. Gel based on Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) containing 5% EOCC was prepared. Twelve healthy volunteers (4 men and 8 women) mean age 36.2 ± 16.3 years old were selected. All procedures were conducted according to the ethical principles and approved by the Ethics Committee from the School of Sciences and Health Technologies, Universidade Lusofona (approval number 04/13). Two areas (3cmx3cm) were drawn in forearm to test formulation. In one area was apllied formulation containing EOCC while in other was applied only gel (control) for 14 days, 2 times per day (morning and night). Before and in end of experiment, the epidermal barrier function was assessed through an evaporimeter (Tewameter TM300 CK electronics). Epidermal hydration was measured using MoistureMeters (Delphin Technologies). Biomechanical skin parameters were evaluated by Cutiscan CS100 (CK electronics). A significant decrease of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), as well as a significant increase of epidermal hydration, were observed in area treated with formulation containing EOCC. Regarding skin biomechanical parameters was detected an increase in firmness and elasticity. The results provide evidence that formulations containing EOCC are safe for topic application and could improve and protect skin suggesting promising utilization in cosmetic products. Keywords: Cymbopogon citratus, essential oil, Lemongrass, Skin, Skin Barrier
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Orientação: Sérgio Andrade
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MESTRADO EM PRODUTOS DE SAÚDE E SUPLEMENTOS ALIMENTARES, CIÊNCIAS FARMACÊUTICAS, ÓLEOS ESSENCIAIS, PELE, BARREIRA CUTÂNEA, PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES, ESSENTIAL OILS, SKIN, SKIN BARRIER, LEMONGRASS, ERVA-PRÍNCIPE